SOME THOUGHTS AND METHODS ON CHASING PINKIES ON THE LONG ROD.
One of my favourite patterns for tilapia especially the Redbreast Tilapia or as known in Zimbabwe as the Pinky (Tilapia rendalii) is a Yellow and Red Wooly Worm pattern, I find it very effective but its only drawback is that it’s a bit fragile when it comes to the abrasive mouths that these fish have, unless constructed bullet proof, these fish will make short work of your lovingly tied creations. But they work and they work well, the contrasting colours are just what triggers these usually vegetarian fish to have a go at it, also the short tail ensures that the fish commit to the fly, since they will so often nip at the tail. So I set out to tie a fly that would stand up to these fish yet still have all the qualities that the fish find attractive.
Nights were spent at the vice figuring out one pattern after the other, often to the wife’s dismay, weekends would be spent at the dam testing these creations, adding even more to the missus’s displeasure.
The contrasting colours were not too much of an issue to figure out, since these fish are not really picky when they are in the mood to take flies, but I wanted a fly that would be easy and simple to tie, one can lose quite a few in an outing, considering that the closer the fly lands to standing vegetation the better and a little breeze or a slight over cast would end the flies snagged in the ruff. The other consideration was to make the flies a bit tougher, especially with the tendency the fish have, to come from behind and mouth the fly a few times, this tends to rasp at the softer materials such as hackle and sometimes even the rib of the fly.
Eventually settling on materials such as ordinary knitting yarn and tuff chenille that come in a variety of colours, to form the body and tail with. It was just a matter of finding a way to incorporate some flash and hackle to the fly that would take the punishment. On one outing the fish as usual tore the trusty Wooly Worm to bits again, but the hackle at the eye where I usually take two or three wraps to give it some bulk and then tie it down with a number of thread wraps to lay it back stayed on, the fly was working so I just whipped out the Leatherman and trimmed the tip of the feather that had come lose, leaving only the collar and also shortened the unravelled crystal flash that I used as a rib, to trail just past the tail. The fish didn’t mind this waterside correction and I kept on catching a number fish on this same fly.
- Hook: Longshank #12
- Thread: Black
- Tail:Red Yarn
- Body: Yellow Tuff Chennile
- Flash: Two Strands Pear Krystal Flash
- Hackle: Black Hen
That evening I took the fly to the vice and tied up a number of these deconstructed woolly worms, dispensing with the palmered hackle and rib, for two strands of flash tied in laying to just the same length as the tail and just taking two or three wraps of hackle behind the eye. It didn’t take too long to tie up a number of these flies in some proven colour combinations either. It basically looked like a bulletproof modern soft hackle or a stick fly. But would the fish approve?
TO THE TESTING GROUNDS
Off to the water at the soonest possible opportunity, with a box full of these new worms it was. On arrival there I made short work of rigging up a rod, over time I had learned that on clear wind still days such as this one was, a yellow and red colour combination was deadly, so I tied one on and started scanning the waters for the redbreasts, it didn’t take too long to find them where they were holding up against the Knotweed. Moving into position I made the first cast as close alongside the green stuff as possible and let the fly sink. Making long slow strips seems to help detect the take and I started retrieving the fly as such. Missing the first take I kept on stripping the fly closer ready for the next enquiry.
It didn’t take to long for another fish to show interest in the fly and I set the hook. After managing to move the fish away from the vegetation that it kept trying to duck into, it used its wide flat profile to its advantage as they usually do. After a quick but spirited fight, carefull to prevent being impaled by one of those wicked spines these fish have, I lifted a decent fish of about 500g from the water. After a quick photo, I unhooked it and set it free again. Now it was time to inspect the fly, so far it had held up and I was quite happy seeing this, so back to the water to continue putting it to the test. A couple more fish later the fly was still fine showing hardly any wear. After a great day catching quite a number of them on this modified pattern that held up quite well, apart from a few that were broken off I went home. That evening I expanded the number of these flies in my box.
- Hook: #12 Longshank
- Thread: Black
- Tail: Yellow Yarn
- Body: Red Wire
- Flash: Two Strands Pearl Krystal Flash
- Hackle: Black Hen
Some effective colours are yellow and red on wind still days when the water is relatively clear, orange and red works well when there is a bit of a chop on the water and a black and chartreuse fly seems to be quite effective in stained or darker waters, or when the weather is a bit overcast. Many tilapia are at times not averse to taking small fry and for this I tie a red and white version. All red and olive flies also have their place for when the fish are in the mood for some aquatic insect fare, red is especially good when the vegetation stands seem to border mudflats that bloodworms live in. Incorporating some wraps of lead helps get the fly down, especially if you are fishing a floating line, but isn’t quite necessary for the sinking lines. When using a sinking line keep the leader and tippet short nothing more than 1,5m with a fluorocarbon tippet of no less than 3X, as the fish live near and often in some nasty stuff and you will need it to keep them out of it, regularly check the tippet after every couple of fish their mouths will also abrade the tippet. Then there is also always the possibility that a bass or catfish will grab the fly, if so you will appreciate the extra strength at the end of the leader. Keep in contact with the fly with long slow strips or the relay retrieve, pointing the rod straight down the line, by doing so you will feel the takes more directly.
Bigger fish seem too often hit the fly between strips so at any hesitation strip strike, often you will be surprised with the result. Fishing with a 3wt rod is fun, but when one of those big guys pick up your fly you will appreciate the backbone of a 5wt or even a 6wt rod. More so if a catfish snaps at the fly, Since they often hunt for smaller tilapia against the weed line, as do bass. Who wont pass up on an easy meal.